005 Beit Barakat
The social media feeds of Jaffa residents have been lit up with photos of a beautifully restored building on Gaza Street. Yes, there is, still, a street named after the place from which rockets were recently fired towards Tel Aviv. After three years of meticulous preservation work, Beit Barakat has opened its doors as the city's newest cultural center, breathing fresh life into one of Jaffa's historic well houses.
Picture this: A 19th-century well house, originally built to support Jaffa's flourishing citrus industry, transformed with a generous financial investment into a vibrant cultural hub. The two-story structure, with its distinctive cross-vaulted ceilings made of local limestone, has been carefully preserved while being adapted for contemporary use. The ground floor, once home to water pumps and livestock, will soon house a community coffee place.
These well houses, or "Bayarat", in Arabic, tell a complex story of Jaffa's history. They initially served the orange groves that made Jaffa famous worldwide. Later they became mansions for wealthy orchard owners. They were all abandoned during the 1948 war, which was fought between Jews and Arabs over this part of land. The war was also fought in the area between Jaffa and Tel Aviv, ending with the collapse of the Arab community and with Israeli independence, a manifestation of the Jewish People's dream of a national home. This well house and many others like it, were nationalized by the newly founded State of Israel and are now being repurposed by the local government of Tel Aviv-Jaffa.
This Bayara (that’s the Arabic singular form of Bayarat), is named Beit Barakat, meaning the house of the Barakat family. Conveniently, Beit means the same thing in Arabic and in Hebrew - house or home. Hopefully, this community center will prove again that coexistence in the Middle East is possible, when all sides are eager to live peacefully and with mutual respect.
The restoration of Beit Barakat consisted of architectural preservation of the building's walls, internal courtyard and water reservoir, while adding modern amenities like an elevator to make it fully accessible. The second floor, adorned with rare wall and ceiling paintings including verses from the Quran (that’s the most important religious text of the Muslim faith), will host an art gallery and a permanent exhibition about the Barakat family and others who lived here for six decades.
One of the first activities to find a place under the roof of Beit Barakat community center is a podcast creation club for children in elementary school. And this is just the start for what seems to have a promising future.
I was thinking about this while guiding a tour in one of the most beautiful parks in the city, in which one can find another Bayara, or a well house, which was also restored but not yet repurposed. It sits in silence, forcing one to reflect on the past - the glorious orange groves which made Jaffa famous, the 1948 Israeli War of Independence and how Tel Aviv incorporated Jaffa in its aftermath, and the relations between Jews and Arabs today in Tel Aviv-Jaffa, in Israel and in the Middle East.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -
The Setai Hotel occupies what was once an Ottoman-era prison, now transformed into one of Jaffa's most luxurious accommodations. It stands right next to the iconic Jaffa Clock Tower. If you spend the night at the Setai Hotel, you'll experience a unique blend of preserved Ottoman architecture and modern luxury. First thing in the morning, after enjoying breakfast and after admiring the views of the Mediterranean Sea, you can start exploring Old Jaffa's enchanting alleyways. Another option is to time your exploring in the afternoon - the golden hours in which all the ancient sites seem like they’re taken out of a postcard.
Make your way to the Clock Tower, a few steps away from the hotel and you’ll find the starting point for my Old Jaffa audio tour. It’s right next to this historic timepiece that has become the symbol of Jaffa. As you follow the audio tour, you'll discover how this ancient port city witnessed visits from Alexander the Great, the Crusaders, and even Napoleon, while exploring the Artists' Quarter and urban parks overlooking the beautiful coastline. Right after the tour you can head out to the flea market area, which comes alive especially in the evening hours.
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You can make sure you've downloaded my Old Jaffa audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour - Old Jaffa's Secrets: A Circular Tour from the Clock Tower to Yefet Street
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
For those planning to visit Jaffa this Spring, you're in for a treat as the area comes alive with both ancient traditions and contemporary culture. This April, Jaffa's Christian community will celebrate Easter with its traditional procession of Easter Sunday, which will take place on April 20th 2025. Churches in Jaffa will hold special services throughout the holiday, starting a few days before, including the iconic St. Peter's Church, which sits on top of the hill of Old Jaffa.
The Jaffa Flea Market, known locally as Shuk HaPishpeshim, is at its most pleasant during spring mornings. Treasure hunters arrive early to browse through antiques and vintage furniture. The market operates Sunday through Friday, closing early on Fridays for Shabbat. The best deals are often found early in the week when it's less crowded. Don't be shy to haggle - it's not just accepted but expected, with most vendors willing to reduce prices by 20-30%. By midday, the market's cafes and restaurants fill up and towards the evening hours you’ll understand why it has become one of the trendiest parts of town, with pubs spilling over the sidewalks and alleyways.
Just around the corner, you'll find the Abulafia bakery - a famous Arab-owned bakery that has been operating in the same location since 1879. It’s Open 24/7 so club-goers sometimes stop here after a long night of partying right before dawn. The bakery is known for its savory pastries and the Arab sweet snacks. The aroma of freshly baked goods often draws people from blocks away. Their signature za'atar bread costs just a few shekels and makes for a perfect snack while exploring. The Abulafia Bakery is also perceived in the eyes of many as a vivid demonstration of coexistence between Jews and Arabs, since the place observes the Jewish prohibition to bake bread during the week long holiday of Passover, also taking place this April, so don’t be surprised to find the place closed April 12th through April 19th.
The ancient Port of Jaffa, once one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean, has been transformed into a charming district filled with seafood restaurants and art galleries. It still operates as a fishermen’s harbor, with larger vessels anchoring in other ports in Israel. Time your visit for sunset, when the old stone buildings take on a golden hue and the last rays of the sun play with the waves as they break on the piers. The port's hangars now house design stores and food places, while still maintaining their historical character.
Getting around Jaffa is best done by foot. Just make sure you’re not walking in the sun for too long during the summer’s heat peak, between 12pm and 3pm. That would be challenging, especially when going up from the clock tower to the hill on top of which Old Jaffa sits.
There are a few museums in Jaffa, including the Ilana Goor art museum and a museum dedicated to the life and legacy of Israeli magician Uri Geller, as well as a historic museum showcasing archaeological finds which were dug out in Jaffa. But what most everyone will easily relate to is the mix of galleries and shops in Old Jaffa’s artists’ quarter.
April evenings in Jaffa have their own special charm. As the sun sets, the old stone walls take on a warm glow, and restaurants start setting up for dinner service. The area around the flea market transforms into a lively nightlife district, with bars sometimes hosting live performances. No need to make a reservation, since the place is filled with so many options, you can just walk in.
I'll elaborate on that in the next episode.
Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
