004 Sinkholes in the Sand
Whatsapp groups of Tel-avivians were filled with news of a sinkhole which suddenly appeared in one of the city's busiest intersections this February. It has become an unexpected attraction, though a pain in the neck for commuters still using their cars to navigate the congested roads of central Tel Aviv.
Picture this: The intersection of Ibn Gabirol and Kaplan - one of Tel Aviv's major crossroads - suddenly transformed by a gaping hole in the ground. The incident, occurring near the construction site of an underground railway station, not only disrupted traffic but also sparked conversations about the city's infrastructure. Thousands of Tel Avivians have had to adapt their daily commute, with many switching to bicycles and electric scooters to navigate around the affected area.
Tel Aviv has turned what could have been just an infrastructure blunder into a testament to urban resilience and adaptability. Text messages were quickly sent to residents and GPS navigation systems were fed with a blocked road alert, so that they could offer drivers alternative routes. Though it didn't go as smoothly as some hoped it would, the lives of most Tel Avivians were untouched by this sinkhole.
Though a bit of a scare, in recent years sinkholes have become a symbol of Tel Aviv's constant evolution. These incidents highlight how the city, built on sand dunes roughly a century ago, continues to transform itself, making urban planners and architects ever more aware of the challenges of building a modern metropolis on soft foundations.
Tel Aviv's urban landscape has always been a work in progress, from the first buildings of the White City erected on empty sand dunes in the 1930’s to today's light rail construction sites. The sinkhole, appearing right next to where new infrastructure is being laid for future transportation, serves as a reminder that building a city is an endless project, requiring constant maintenance and forward thinking.
I was thinking about this as I was crossing Ibn Gabirol street in one of its sections that wasn’t closed due to the sinkhole emergency repair efforts. Walking past another underground train station along the Green Line of Tel Aviv’s light rail project, anticipated to open towards the year 2030.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -
Hotel Cinema is a stylish boutique hotel near Dizengoff Square. If you spend the night there, you'll be sleeping in what used to be one of Tel Aviv's first movie theaters, now beautifully preserved and converted into a hotel that celebrates cinema history. Its rooftop offers a panoramic view of the city center and is ideally located to check out the area's unique architecture.
Make your way to Dizengoff Square - this is where my White City audio tour begins, right beside the iconic fountain that has become a symbol of Tel Aviv's remodeling and preservation efforts of recent years. The square is considered the heart of the White City area, which UNESCO designated as a World Heritage site in 2003. As you follow the audio tour, you'll discover the cultural significance of what has become a hallmark for architectural preservation.
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You can make sure you've downloaded my White City audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour - The White City.
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
For those planning to visit Tel Aviv this Spring, you're in for a special treat as the official beach season kicks off on April 5th, 2025. The city's coastline transforms into a vibrant playground with lifeguard stations fully staffed and beach facilities operating at full capacity.
Gordon Beach, right in the heart of the hotel district, is perfect for tourists and first-time visitors. The wide strip of sand offers everything from volleyball courts to outdoor gym equipment, and the Gordon Pool right next to it provides an alternative swimming experience in case the sea is too rough. The adjacent promenade features numerous cafes and restaurants, making it easy to spend an entire day here, though one should be cautioned the prices tend to be higher at restaurants closer to the coastline.
Hilton Beach, just north of Gordon, is actually divided into three distinct sections, each catering to different crowds. The northern part is Tel Aviv's dog beach, where four-legged friends can run free and swim alongside their owners. The middle section is popular with the surfer crowd, featuring a wave break that's perfect for newbie surfers. The southern section is known simply as the gay beach. It’s decorated with Pride flags year round, proudly showcasing Tel Aviv's status as one of the most LGBTQ+ friendly cities in the world.
Interestingly enough, the beach right north of the gay beach is called the separated beach. It caters to the ultra-orthodox community, with different bathing times for men and women, for religious reasons. It really shows you how Tel Aviv attempts to provide a place for everyone.
All Tel Aviv beaches are free to access, so all are invited to just come, towel in hand and with a bathing suit on. The city also provides free fresh-water showers, restrooms which are cleaned almost hourly, and you can rent sun loungers and umbrellas at reasonable prices. Locals simply bring their own beach gear, though I find it a bit of a nuisance, when you can rent a chair and a parasol for a controlled price. You can download an official app to pay for the beach equipment or use the machines at the entrance to any beach, that will take your money - cash or credit - and provide you with a slip to give to the beach attendant, who will install the parasol or bring you the chairs and loungers.
Pay attention to the flags at the lifeguard stations - they're your key to safe swimming. A white flag indicates ideal swimming conditions, red means challenging but still permitted conditions, while black signals that swimming is prohibited due to dangerous conditions. The lifeguard stations operate from the early morning hours until late afternoon, with hours extending as the days get longer and summer approaches.
Tel Aviv's beaches have consistently been awarded the Blue Flag certification by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE). This prestigious eco-label is awarded to beaches that meet stringent standards for water quality, environmental management, safety and services provided. The city maintains these high standards through regular water quality testing, accessible facilities, and environmental education programs. I’m always amazed how easy it is to go to the beach in Tel Aviv with a stroller and you can spot blue rubber mats stretching from the promenade to the seafront, allowing for people in wheelchairs easy access to the city’s greatest natural resource.
You can get a great tan on the beach, swim in the cool water, surf the waves and also - this is quite unique to Israel - enjoy a game of matkot. It’s a popular paddle ball game that's become synonymous with Tel Aviv beach culture. The sound of balls clicking against wooden paddles has become such an integral part of the Tel Aviv beach experience that it's often called Israel's unofficial national sport.
Tel Aviv boasts fourteen kilometers of golden sand beaches - that’s almost ten miles. With so much built up area and so little nature in this ever growing metropolis, the coastline is not only the city’s greatest natural resource, but also a kind of nature preservation area with a wide variety of flora and fauna. Nine million visitors a year are estimated to come and take in the breeze, bathe in the waters of the Mediterranean and spot birds flying overhead. It’s a perfect setting for a family vacation during the day, but also a romantic atmosphere for a couple perfecting a photo with the sun setting behind them on the backdrop of Ancient Jaffa. I'll elaborate on that in the next episode.
Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
